Krakwing Build Notes

[[Krakwing Build Instructions]] [[Krakwing Board]] #rc

Build Notes

Cutting Wings

  • Measured wing sides and discovered that the two edges were not parallel, with a parallelism tolerance of about 2°
  • used Onshape sketcher to develop a set of dimensions to
  • cut the foam to shape using the plans, mostly freehanded, with only a scale, sharpie, and calipers
    • In retrospect, should have printed a template
  • The wings are mostly straight, but there were some gaps that needed to be filled and one wing is ~2-3 mm “in front” of the other IMG_2843.jpeg Carefully measured sharpie lines drawn pseudo-freehand

IMG_2842.jpeg Test fitting: Yes, I cut the wings out with my Takamura.

Gluing Wings to Fuselage

Use a slower-setting glue, like E6000.

Nose

  • Nose/camera mount had non-manifold geometry
    • Fix: Isolate the half that had fine geometry
      • For some reason, mirroring the good half would still cause non-manifold geometry on the other half
    • Take that half, convert to high resolution STL mesh
    • extrude cut as little as possible to make the middle completely flat
    • then mirror that mesh
    • final product will be a mesh that is just slightly narrower than the original (0.08mm in my case) but had fully manifold geometry
  • Printing was fine, I did it vertically, with tree supports holding up the camera mount and the top
    • Another option was to do it on its side, with one of the wing-facing sides on the build plate
      • While attractive due to needing less support, this would have led to awkward supports
  • Also had to modify the mesh to accept proper M3 threaded inserts
    • The holes Daniel designed were a weird size between M4 and M3 even though he used normal M3 insert size for the motor mount
  • While printing the modified heat insert version of the nose, I tore a hole in a brand new bed due to bad offsets
  • After losing this brand new bed, I switched to powder coated steel and it is so much better, I should have always had a steel bed

IMG_0677.jpeg Nose updates 3-29:

  • I thought that the FC outputted 5v to camera, but it actually outputted BV to the camera, so I fried it.
    • Ordered new camera
    • Will have to wire the camera to the VTx onboard 5V BEC
  • I wanted to change the VTx voltage Vv on the FC to 5v, but the VTx minimum V is 7
    • FC supports BV, 5V, or 6V to both the camera and VTx

      Paint

  • One coat of Rustoleum Ultracover seemed not to melt the foam noticeably
    • This paint does have acetone
  • Was a little uneven in the sunlight, but it worked out
  • The paint (Rustic Orange) has a nice mellow burnt orange color
  • Left the elevons unpainted
    • This really gives an orange sherbet vibe to the plane

IMG_2851.jpeg

IMG_2852.jpeg

IMG_2854.jpeg Post-paint, pre-laminate

Foam Lamination

  • Waited 24hrs from painting and that seemed to be enough time
  • Sprayed the painted foam with one light coat of Super 77
    • Was not enough, the laminate would stick in some places but not in others, most importantly the corners
    • didn’t notice the foam being dissolved IMG_2855.jpeg Super 77 is almost completely transparent
  • Cut the laminate to shape
    • One piece for each piece of foam
  • Using a Black & Decker nonstick clothes iron from Amazon
    • No water
    • setting 4 “blends” was too hot
    • setting it right above 3 (synthetics) to 3.5 seems to be right, will depress the foam only just slightly at 2-3psi
    • Tried two methods: pinning down corners and ironing from center out
      • With this film (I don’t know what it is, but I think it’s stationery laminate) the center-out method worked better: there were less wrinkles. Was not able to eliminate wrinkles entirely, however.
    • Cut off excess film, will cover the beveled edge with a small flap
  • Overlapped foam from the top side to the bottom, i.e. left a flap on the top and ironed it over the bottom IMG_2856.jpeg
  • The laminate shrunk ever so slightly
    • It was enough to deform the slight reflex in the control surfaces, but this was to be expected because of how thin they are
  • Cut off excess with a utility blade

    Attaching Elevons

  • Used 3M standard packing tape
  • cleaned the surfaces with 99% iso
  • carefully attached elevon (the tape sticks to laminate, not foam) top surface first
    • Maximum deflection during sticking to ensure that the elevon has enough range of motion
  • Bottom surface then taped, also at max deflection
  • Cut the excess tape away from the edges

Wingtip Covers

  • Used a sharpie to mark where the holes in the covers were on the foam
  • had to expand the holes with a knife
  • Used foaming gorilla glue and used tape to clamp the covers onto the wings
  • I have previously noticed that Gorilla glue soaks into the foam, so I hope that these will actually adhere
  • They seem to have adhered great with only small dots of Gorilla glue in a line spaced about 10mm apart

Pasted_image_20250323183505.jpg Here, the tape on wingtips is to clamp on the wingtip covers while the glue cures

Servos pt. 1

  • I am personally soldering the servo wires onto the flight controller because the DuPont connectors are too tall for the plane and horizontal connectors wouldn’t fit in the avionics compartment
  • Traced in the servo housings 5mm back from the main spar
  • Cut the traced lines with a utility knife, going roughly the depth of the servo housing (~15mm)
  • picked out the foam beads with pliers for big chunks and tweezers for individual beads
  • Glued in the servo trays
    • Spread glue around the sides of the tray
      • One thin bead around the whole thing was a good amount: only got the slightest bit of foaming through the top
      • The sloppier side (I tried to smear this side) got a little glue that dripped underneath the tray, but no big deal. A thin bead around the bottom edge of the side was plenty.
    • Used small bottles to weigh down the trays overnight
    • They seem to have stuck great pre-flight IMG_0679.jpeg

At this time, I have to think critically about where I will route the servo wires, because I plan to have some electronics out on the surface of the wings, so I’m going to continue the servo story in the next section.

Electronics Placement

I didn’t modify the avionics bay. I really thought I would have this project done in a weekend, and I didn’t want to wait for another to print. In retrospect, I definitely should have waited and modified the avionics bay.

Since I decided to buy different electronics than Daniel designed the plane for, they don’t really fit well in the avionics bay. I bought all of these right when the news outlets were crying “tariffs” and I really thought I would be hit hard if I tried to buy the Daniel-configured electronics from Aliexpress. So, I Amazon Primed slightly a different controller and VTx. The controller is smaller, but it doesn’t line up with the 3d printed holes. The VTx is bigger, so I will have to mount it on the wing. This is not a huge deal though, as I can use the empty space in the avionics compartment for the receiver and ESC. IMG_2873.jpeg

Conclusion

It flies!

IMG_2884.jpeg IMG_2890.jpeg

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